CHAPTER 5.3

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cristina.cosmetology
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123096
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CHAPTER 5.3
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2011-12-12 20:04:52
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CHEMISTRY COSMETICS
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CHEMISTRY NOTES
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  1. THE FOOD AND DRUG ACT OF 1938
    DEFINES ARTICLES INTENDED TO BE POURED, RUBBED, SPRINKLED,OTHERWISE APPLIED TO THE HUMAN BODY OR ANY OTHER PART THEROF CLENSING BEUTIFYING PROMOTING ACTIVENESS OR ALTERING APPEARANCE
  2. COSMETIC CLASSIFICATIONS:
    • 1.SOLUTIONS
    • 2.SUSPENSIONS
    • 3.EMULSIONS
    • 4. OINTMENTS
    • 5. SOAPS
    • 6.POWDERS
  3. COSMETIC CLASSIFICATIONS : MIXTURES
    ARE TWO OR MORE SUBSTANCES THAT ARE PHYSICALLY COMBINED
  4. SOLUTIONS: SOLUTES AND SOLVENTS
    • SOLUTIONS ARE MIXTURES OF TWO OR MORE KINDS OF MOLECULES EVENLY DISPERSED
    • SOLVENTS- WHICH IS ANY SUBSTANCE THAT IS ABLE TO DISSOLVE ANOTHER SUBSTANCE
    • SOLUTE- ANY SUBSTANCE THAT DISSOLVES INTO A LIQUID AND FORMS A SOLUTION, THEY CAN EITHER BE A SOLID A LIQUID OR GAS
  5. THE THREE CLASSES OF SOLUTIONS :
    A DILUTE SOLUTION
    CONTAINS A SMALL QUANTITY OF THE SOLUTE IN COMPARISON TO THE QUALITY OF THE SOLVENT
  6. THE THREE CLASSES OF SOLUTIONS :
    CONCENTRATED SOLUTION
    CONTAINS A LARGE QUANTITY OF THE SOLUTE IN COMPARISION TO THE SOLVENT
  7. THE THREE CLASSES OF SOLUTIONS :
    SATURATED SOLUTION
    CANNOT TAKE OR DISSOLVE MORE OF THE SOLUTE THAN IT ALEDY HOLDS AT ANY GIVEN TEPERATURE
  8. SOLUTIONS: WATER
    WATER IS CONSIDERED A UNIVERSAL SOLVENT BECAUSE IGT IS CAPABLE OF DISSOLVING MORE SUBSTANCES THAN ANYOTHER SOLVENT ONY OIL AND WAX CANNOT BE DISSOLVED IN WATER
  9. SUSPENSIONS
    • ARE ALSO MIXTUTRES OF TWO OR MORE KINDS OF MOLECULES
    • THEY NEED TO BE SHOOKEN WELL DUE TO STANDING
    • MANY LOTIONS ARE SUSPENSIONS
  10. EMULSIONS
    ARE FORMED WHEN TWO OR MORE NON MIXABLE SUBSTANCES LIKE OIL AND WATER ARE UNITED WITH THE HELP OF A BINDER OR GUM LIKE SUBSTANCE
  11. EMULSIONS : CLASSIFICATIONS
    • OIL IN WATER: PERM
    • WATER IN OIL : COLD CREAMS
    • MOST COSMETOLOGY CLASSIFICATIONS ARE CLASSIFIED AS OIL IN WATER
  12. IMMISCIBLE
    LIQUIDS NOT ABLE TO BE MIXED
  13. MISCIBLE
    LIQUIDS ABLE TO BE MIXED TOGETHER WITHOUT SEPERATING
  14. OINTMENTS
    • ARE MIXTURES OF ORGANIC SUBSTANCES AND A MEDICINAL AGENT USUALLY FOUND IN A SEMI SOLID FORM
    • WATER IS GENERALLY NOT PRESENT IN MIXTURE
    • MOST COMMOMLY FOUND IN :
    • STICKS-LIPSTICKS
    • PASTES-EYESHADOWS OR BLUSH
    • MUCILAGES-THICK LIQUUIDS OR HAIR PRODUCT
  15. SOAPS
    • ARE MIXTURES OF FATS AND OILS CONVERTED INTO FATTY ACIDS BY HEAT AND THEN PURIFIED
    • GENERALLY FALL INTO THE CATAGORY OF :
    • DEODARANTS
    • BEAUTY SOAPS
    • MEDICATED SOAPS
    • AND LIQUID SOAPS
  16. POWDERS
    • ARE EQUAL MIXTURES OF INORGANIC AND ORGANIC SUBSTANCES THAT DO NOT DISSOLVE IN WATER AND HAVE BEEN SIFTED AND MIXED UNTIL FREE OF COARSE GRITTY PARTICLES
    • OFTEN CLASSIFIED AS SHADES OF COLOR ARE USUALLY ADDED FOR PURPOSES OF ENHANCEMENT
  17. SHAMPOOS
    • PRIMARILY TO CLEAN THE HAIR AND SCALP AND REMOVE ALL FOREIGN MATTER INCLUDING DIRT SEBAUM COSMETICS HAIR SPRAY AND SKIN DEBRIS WITHOUT ADVERSLY AFFECTING EITHER HAIR OR SCALP
    • SHOULD BE SOOTHING RELAXING EXPERIENCE
  18. SHAMPOOS
    SHOULD BE DONE AS OFTEN AS NESCECARY DEPENDING ON HOW QUICKLY THE SCALP BECOMES SOILED
  19. SURFACTANTS: CLENSING AGENTS
    • ARE USED TO REMOVE OIL FROM THE HAIR
    • ARE HYDROPHILIC AND LIPHOPHILIC
    • ARE CONTAINED IN SHAMPOSS TO REMOVE OIL FROM THE HAIR
  20. WATER
    IS THE MAIN INGREDIENT LISTED IN SHAMPOOS
  21. ALL PURPOSE SHAMPOOS
    • CONTAIN LOW ALKALINE CONTENT AND LOW CONCENTRATION OF SURFACE ACTIVE AGENTS
    • DESIGNED TO CLENSE HAIR WITHOUT CORRECTING ANY SPECIAL CONDITION
  22. ACID BALENCED SHAMPOOS
    NON STRIPPING
    • ARE FORMULATED TO HAVE THE SAME PH BALENCE AS HAIR AND SKIN 4.4-5.5
    • ARE MADE SPECIALLY TO CLENSE CHEMICALLY TREATED HAIR
  23. PLAIN SHAMPOOS
    ARE USUALLY STRONG AND CONTAIN HIGH ALKALINE OR SOAP BASE THEY CAN BE USED SUCCESFULLY ON VIRGIN HAIR IN GOOD CONDITION BUT ARE NOT RECOMENDED FOR CHEMICALLY TREATED OR COLORED HAIR
  24. SOAPLESS SHAMPOOS
    ARE ABLE TO LATEHER WITHOUT HARSH ALKALINE INGREDIENNTS THESES SOAPLESS SURFACTANTS ARE EFFECTIVE IN BOTH HARD AND SOFT WATER AND RINSE OUT EASILY
  25. MEDICATED SHAMPOOS
    OBTAINED BY PERSCRIPTION OR DRUG STORE USED TO TREAT SCALP CONDITIONS AND DISORDERS
  26. CLARIFYING SHAMPOOS
    OFTEN HAVE A HIGHER ALKALINITY IN ORDER TO BE ABLE TO REMOVE RESIDUE SUCH AS PRODUCT BUILD UP
  27. ANTI DANDRUF SHAMPOOS
    FORMULATED FOR EITHER DRY OR OILY SCALP AND CONTAIN ANTI FUNGUS OR GERMICIDE INGREDIENT AND CONDITIONERS TO CONTROL DANDRUF CONDITIONS OR SCALP DISORDERS
  28. LIQUID DRY
    • SHAMPOOSARE USED TO CLENSE TTHE SCALP WHRN THE CLIENT CANNOT RECEIVE A NORMAL SHAMPOO
    • ARE EFFECTIVE CLEANING WIGS AND HAIR PIECES
    • HOWEVER THEY ARE HIGHLY FLAMABLE AND SHOULD BE USED WITH CAUTION
  29. POWDER DRY SHAMPOOS
    ASRE FORMULATED FOR CLIENTS WHO ARE BEDRIDDEN AND CANNOT WET THEIR HAIR THESE SHAMPOOS CONTAIN ORRIS ROOT POWDER THAT ABSORB SOIL AND OIL AS THE PRODUCT IS BRUSHED THROUGH THE SCALP AND HAIR
  30. CONDITIONING SHAMPOOS
    • CONTAIN SMALL AMOUNTS OF ANIMAL VEGETABLE OR MINERAL ADDITIVES THAT PENETRATE INTO THE CORTEX OR COAT THE CUTICLE OF THE HAIR
    • CAN IMPROVE STRENGTH AND POROSITY OF THE HAIR
  31. COLOR SHAMPOOS
    CONTAIN TEMPORARY COLOR MOLECULES THAT ADHERE TO THE OUTER CUTICLE OF THE HAIR AND DEPOSIT COLOR
  32. SHAMPOOS FOR THINNING HAIR
    ARE FORMULATED AS GENTLE SHAMPOOS WITH LIGHTER MOLECULAR WEIGHT THAT DOES NOT CAUSE DAMAGE OR WEIGH THE HAIR DOWN
  33. COSMETIC APPEARANCE
    REFERS TO TGHE LUSTER OR SHINE OF THE HAIR IF THEY LAYERS STAND AWAY FROM THE HAIR SHAFT THE HAIR WILL APPEAR ROUGH AND DULL
  34. POROSITY
    REFERS TO THE HAIRS ABILITY TO ABSORB MOISTURE LIQUIDS OR CHEMICALS
  35. MANAGEABILITY
    DETERMINED BYU HOW EASILY A COMB CAN PASS THRROUGH WET OR DRY HAIR
  36. ELASTICITY
    IS THE ABILITY OF THE HAIR TO STRETCH AND RETURN TO ITS NATURAL SHAPE
  37. RINSES
    EFFECT MOSTLY THE SURFACE OF THE HAIR
  38. VINEGAR AND LEMN RINSE
    HELP KEEP THE CUTICLE COMPACT
  39. CREAME RINSE
    SOFTEN AND ADD LUSTER MAKING TANGLED HAIR EASIER TO COMB
  40. MEDICATED RINSE
    ARE DESIGNED WITH INGREDIENTS THAT CONTROL MINOR DANDRUF AND SCALP CONDITIONS
  41. INSTANT CONDITIONERS
    COAT THE HAIR SHAFT AND RESTORE MOISTURE AND OILS BUT DO NOT PENETRATE INTO THE CORTEX
  42. NORMALIZING CONDITIONERS
    USUALLY CONTAIN A VEGETABLE PROTEIN AND HAVE AN ACIDIC PG WHICH CAUSES THE CUTICLE TO CLOSE AFTER AN ALKALINE CHEMICAL SERVICE
  43. BODY BUILDING CONDITIONERS
    ARE REQUIRED WHEN THE HAIR S FINE AND LIMP AND CONTAINS TOO MUCH MOISTURE TO MAINTAIN A GOOD STYLE
  44. MOISTURIZING CONDITIONERS
    CONTAIN HYDROLYZED ANIMAL PROTEINS AND ARE RECOMENDED FOR DRY BRITTLE HAIR THAT HAS BEEN MECHANICALLY OR CHEMICALLY DAMAGED
  45. CUSTOMIZED CONDITIONERS
    ARE FORMULATED TO MEET CLOIENTS SPECIAL NEEDS
  46. ADSITIONAL CONDITIONER IUNGREDIENTS :
    • AMINES/QUATS -MAKE HAIR EASIER TO COMB AND CONTROL STATIC
    • DIMETHICONES- GIVE SOFTNESS TO FEEL THE HAIR WITHOUT WEIGHING IT DOWN THEY ARE A FORM OF SILICONE
    • FATTY ALCHOHOLS- AND ACIDS GIVE HAIR A SMOOTH FEELING WHEN DRY AND MAE IT EASIER TO COMB

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