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who is the father of oceanography?
matthew maury
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what were some of the contributions of the greeks and romans?
calculated latitude and circumference of the earth.
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what was the first voyage designed to collect data?
HMS challenger
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what are marine chronometers?
keep accurate time at sea
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what current did ben franklin help to chart in the atlantic?
the gulf stream
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how did WWII contribute to oceanography studies?
u-boat led to echo sounder (SONAR)
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when did oceans first develop?
4 billion years ago
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what kind of crust makes up the ocean floor? what kind makes up most of continental crust?
- ocean crust: basalt
- continental crust: granite
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what are the major bodies of water on earth? around which ocean is the "ring of fire" located?
- major bodies: atlantic, pacific, indian, arctic, and southern oceans
- ring of fire located in pacific ocean
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what are the earth's layers?
crust, mantle, outer core, inner core
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where are the youngest seafloor rocks found?
mid ocean ridge
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what drives the movement of plates?
convection currents in the mantle
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who developed the idea of continental drift?
alfred wegener
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what are the 3 types of plate boundaries and what is happening at each?
- transform: sliding past each other
- divergent: moving apart
- convergent: come together
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what is subduction?
when one plate slides under another
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where would mid ocean ridges be found?
divergent boundaries
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why are satellites used to map the ocean floor?
satellites are faster, accurate, and more efficient
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about how fast are crustal plates moving?
- 3-11 cm a year
- the rate at which your fingernails grow
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what seafloor features would you find as you move from the coast out into the ocean?
continental shelf, continental slope, continental rise, abyssal plain
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what is the flat area of seafloor that makes up most of the ocean basins, and is found in deep water areas?
abyssal plain
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what causes submarine canyons?
turbidity currents
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when and where were hydrothermal vents first discovered?
1977 near galapagos
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how hot can it get at a hydrothermal vent?
380 degrees C or 716 degrees F
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what organisms do you typically find around a vent?
tubeworms, vent shrimp, limpets, serpund, shrimp, mussels
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describe the relationship between tubeworms and bacteria. how do bacteria provide food for hydrothermal vent communities?
bacteria oxidize hydrogen sulfide for organisms
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coral reefs provide a home for ____ of all marine species.
1/4
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what is the main body structure of a coral?
limestone
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how do corals (animals) get the food they need? describe their symbiotic relationship.
the animal eats zooplankton, provides oxygen, coral provides shelter and protection
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how can sediments endanger a reef system?
smothers the coral and makes it hard to get nutrients
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what are the two types of corals and the differences between them?
- soft: protein or calcium carbonate
- hard: calcium carbonate
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what is coral bleaching? what causes it?
water is too warm so coral expels algae causing it to turn white
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what are 3 types of coral reefs and characteristics of each?
- atoll: circular, surrounding central lagoon
- barrier: parallel to shore
- fringing: fairly close to shore, may have to lagoon
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describe water's chemical structure and properties.
- pH: 7
- density: 1
- boiling point: 100 degrees C
- freezing point: 0 degreees C
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what are some of the sources of the oceans salts?
erosion of rocks, shells, hydrothermal vents
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where would you expect the salinity to be highest: open ocean or coastal areas? why?
open ocean, there is no fresh water run off
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describe the density differences between fresh and saltwater; betwseen cold and warm water.
saltwater and cooler water are more dense
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what is pH, what is the pH of ocean water, and what are buffers?
- pH is the H+ ions in a solution
- the pH of water is 8-9
- buffers: help maintain pH levels
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what salt is most abundant in seawater?
sodium chloride
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what is a hydrometer? refractometer?
- hydrometer: measures salinity based on gravity
- refractometer: measures salinity based on light index
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which color of light penetrates deepest in the ocean?
blue
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what is the area of light penetration called?
photic zone
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what is the SOFAR channel?
sound fixing and ranging
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what is a sediment?
eroded particles and debris that settle on the ocean floor. (organic and inorganic)
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what are some reasons to study marine sediments (why are they important)?
- resources (oil, sand, and cement)
- document evolution of life
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what are sizes of sediments and how are they measured?
- wentworth scale
- clay, silt, sand, gravel
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why has much of the ocean's sediment record been "lost" over time?
continents shift causing sediments to shift down
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what are the four groups of sediments, and what are examples of each?
- lithogenous: quartz
- biogenous: wood
- hydrogenous: manganese nodule
- cosmogenous: tektites
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what are the two major forces that determine global air circulation?
uneven solar heating and coriolis effect
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how are hurricanes ranked? describe how hurricanes form. what is the difference between a hurricane and a typhoon?
- ranked on staffir- simpson scale
- hurricanes form with warm moist air
- hurricanes and typhoons are the same thing, just called different names
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what are convection cells? how does air move within them (talk about density)?
less dense hor air rises --> cools and becomes more dense
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what are the wind currents within the different convection cells (look at latitude of the cells)?
- polar easterlies: 60 and 60
- ferrel westerlies: 30-60
- hadley tradewinds: 0-30
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what is the coriolis effect why does it happen? how does how is it different in northern and southern hemispheres?
- effects rotation causing air to circulate
- north: right/clockwise
- south: left/counterclockwise
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what are differences between land and sea breezes?
- land: blows to sea
- sea: blows to land
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what is the difference between surface and deep water circulation? what drives each?
- surface: wind circulation driven by friction between water and wind
- deep: thermohaline circulation caused by density and temperature
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what are gyres? how do they move in the northern and southern hemispheres?
- gyres: ocean currents moving in circular patterns
- north: right/clockwise
- south: left/counterclockwise
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waht are differences between ocean currents on the eastern sides of ocean basins vs western sides?
- east: slow moving, wide, cold water
- west: fast moving, narrow, warm water
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what is the overall purpose of wind/air and water circulation?
create thermal balance
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what is the eckman spiral?
caused by friction, spirals outward
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what is el nino? when does it happen? how often does it happen? what effects does it have?
- seasonal change of climate
- happens around christmas
- every 3-7 years
- causes storms, mudslides, snowstorms
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what is downwelling?
waters push towards the surface
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which would have more nutrients and oxygen: cold water or warm water?
cold water
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the ultimate source for ocean and air currents is the ____.
sun
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