CSUF KNES 112 Final
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Tin Tin Puulei's Advice
- 1. Get out of the way of oncoming surfers.
- 2. Surfer closest to the peak gets the wave.
- 3. Respect other surfers.
Andy Irons's Lesion 1
- Equipment Selection
- 1. Nose, Tail, Fins, Deck, Rails, Bottom.
- 2. Traction Pad, Wax
- 3. Board Bag (2-3 Inches Bigger than Bord)
- 4. Always Wear a leash
- 5. Wetsuit (Cold Water) Trunks (Tropics)
- 6. Sunblock! Protect from Sun.
Andy Irons Lesion 2
- 1. Be alert (oncoming surfers and boards)
- 2. Protect your heard
- 3. Never jump off your board
Andy Irons Lesion 3
- Finding your stance
- 1. Left foot (regular foot)
- 2. Right foot (goofy foot)
Andy Irons Lesion 4
- Stance and posture
- 1. Stringer (center line)
- 2. Knees bent & Inline with Stringer
Andy Irons Lesion 5
- Standing Up
- 1. Grab rails do push up (center your weight)
- 2. Front foot on the stringer
- 3. Spin the foot down
Andy Irons Lesion 6
- 1. Paddle like life depends on it!
- 2. Dont be lazy
- 3. Keep arms close to board and deep strokes
- 4. Keep fingers together
- 5. Triceps and back exercise
- 6. Bring hands under chest and front foot up.
Andy Irons Lesion 7
- 1. Waves are energy moving through medium of water.
- 2. Wind blow on water then water molecules push on each then drag along ocean bottom.
- 3. When ocean bottom starts to shallow lines of energy compress and slow down and stall, then top of wave continues moving and falls down on itself
- 4. This creates white water
- 5. If really show then forms tube
- 6. Formula Wave breaks when depth of the water is half the wave height
- 7. Wave breaks = Impact Zone
- 8. Waves are rolling energy
- 9. Stay Perpendicular
- 10. Surf where there is a lifeguard
Andy Irons Lesion 8
- Before you surf
- 1. Dont go surfing after eat (wait ~ 30 mins)
- 2. Stretch
Andy Irons Lesion 8
- Equipment Preparation
- 1. Leash
- 2. Never wax the board
Andy Irons Lesion 9
- Entering the water
- 1. Putting on the leash of back ankle
- 2. Pick up board one rail at a time
Andy Irons Lesion 11
- Paddling Out
- 1. Straight up never parallel with waves
- 2. Arms close, Fingers Closed, deep strokes
- 3. Push up before white wash hits, let water goes between you and board.
- 4. sit on board then go perpendicular use yourself as an anchor
- 5. Turtle roll
- 6. Last resort BAIL OUT!
Andy Irons Lesion 12
- Catching Waves
- 1. Sit up on board
- 2. spin legs in circular motion
Friday 17th Surf Report
Friday the 17th is looking at, waist to chest high surf at west facing spots, knee high surf at south facing spots.
Identifying a Rip Current
- 1. channel of churring, choppy water
- 2. an area having a notable difference in water color
- 3. line of foam, seaweed, or debris moving steadily seaward
- 4. break in the incoming wave pattern
Avoid & Survive Rip Currents
- 1. Never swim alone
- 2. Be cautious at all times! If in doubt dont go out.
- 3. Swim at lifeguard protected beaches.
- 4. Obey instructions and orders from lifeguards.
- 5. If caught in a rip current, remain calm to conserve energy and think clearly
- 6. If unable to swim out of rip current, float or calmly tread water. When out of current, swim towards shore.
- 7. If unable to reach shore, draw attention to yourself: face the shore, wave arms and yell for help.
- 8. If you see someone in trouble, get help from a lifeguard If no lifeguard call 911, and send a buoyant object in the current.
The seaward return of the water following the uprush of waves. Also called backrush or run down.
A wave that has become so steep that the crest of the wave topples forward, moving faster than the main body of the wave.
The zone within which waves approaching the coastline commence breaking, typically in water depths between 5m and 10m.
One of a series of short ridges on the shore separated by crescent-shaped troughs spaced at more or less regular intervals. Between these cusps are hollows. The cusps are spaced at somewhat uniform distances along beaches.
An indentation in a shoreline forming an open bay
- - semi-enclosed costal body of water which has a free connection with the open sea. The seawater is usually measurably diluted with freshwater.
- - Part of the river that is affected by tides
- - Zone or area of water in which freshwater & saltwater mingle and water is brackish due to daily mixing and layering of fresh & salt water
Current which flow parallel to shore before converging and forming the neck of a rip current
- A shore-protection structure (built usually to trap littoral drift or retard erosion of the shore). It is narrow in width (measured parallel to shore) and its length may vary from tens to hundres of meters (extending from a point landward of the shoreline out into the water).
- May be classified as permeable (with openings through them) or impermeable (a solid or nearly solid structure).
Head of a rip
That part of a rip current circulation typically located beyond the breakers, marked by a spreading out or fanning of the circulation. It is here where the velocity and strength of the rip current circulation begins to weaken considerably.
On open seacoasts, a structure extending into a body of water to direct and confine the stream of tidal flow to a selected channel, or to prevent shoaling. Jetties are built at the mouth of a river entrance to a bay to help deepen and stabilize a channel and facilitate navigation.
A current running parallel to the beach and generally caused by waves striking the shore at an angle.
The sedimentary material moved parallel to the shoreline in the nearshore zone by waves and currents.
A current located in the surf zone, moving generally parallel to the shoreline, generated by waves breaking at an angle with the shoreline, also called the alongshore current.
That part of a rip current circulation located in the surf zone, marked by a narrow band of swiftly moving, seaward flowing water. It is here where the velocity of the circulation is at a maximum, and where most rip current drowning deaths occur.
A channel cut by the seaward flow of a rip current, usually crossing a sandbar
A relatively small-scale surf-zone current moving away from the beach. Rip currents form as waves disperse along the beach causing water to become trapped between the beach and a sandbar or other underwater feature. The water converges into a narrow, river-like channel moving away from the shore at high speed. A rip current consists of three parts: the feeder current flowing parallel to the shore inside the breakers; the neck, where the feeder currents converge and flow through the breakers in a narrow band or "rip"; and the head, where the current widens and slackens outside the breaker line.
Rip currents are not rip tides. A disctincly separate type of current includes both ebb and flood tidal currents that are caused by egress and ingress of the tide through inlets and the mouths of estuaries embayments and harbors. These currents may cause drowning deaths, but these tidal currents or jets are separate and distinct phenomenon from rip currents. Recommended term for this phenomenon include ebb jet or tidal jet
the rush of water up a beach due to breaking of a wave. The amount of run-up is the vertical height above stillwater level that the rush of water reaches.
An offshore ride or mound which is submerged (at least at high tide), especially at the mouth of a river or estuary, or lying parallel to, and a short distance from, the beach.
The intersection of the ocean water surface with the shore or beach.
Significant Wave Height
The average wave height of the one-third highest wave of a given wave group.
Area of water between the high tide level on the beach and seaward side of breaking waves.
Wind-generated waves that have traveled out of their source region, usually over a considerable distance. Swell waves exhibit a more regular and longer period than flatter crests than choppy, locally generated wind waves.
The periodic rising and falling of the water which results from gravitational attraction of the Moon and Sun acting upon the rotating Earth.
Different than a Rip Current!!!!
Vertical distance between the crest and the preceding trough of a wave.
Waves generated by, and directly attributable to local winds, as opposed to swell waves, which have traveled over a considerable distance and produced by winds occurring at some previous time.
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