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2015-04-22 18:09:30

geology test 3
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  1. top of a wave
  2. bottom of a wave
  3. still water level
    halfway between crest and trough where the water level would be if there were no waves
  4. vertical distance between crest and trough
    wave height
  5. horizontal distance between two successive crests
    wave length
  6. time it takes one full wavelength to pass a fixed point
    wave period
  7. wind duration
    length of time the wind blows
  8. distance across which the wind blows
  9. fully developed wave
    largest waves that can form under given circumstances at the time
  10. waves of translation
    waves reach a depth of half a wave length or less
  11. the area where the waves are breaking
  12. whitecaps
    form when wind knocks off the tops of waves in deeper water
  13. seismic sea waves
    caused by underwater earthquakes or mass wasting
  14. types of wave erosion
    abrasion, impact, wave refraction
  15. wave refraction
    bending of a wave as different parts feel bottom at different times
  16. beach drift
    transporting sand and pebbles in a zig zag
  17. longshore current
    the slow "river of water" moving along the shoreline
  18. walls of rock, wood or concrete built at right angles to stop the movement of sand
  19. walls of rock, etc built in pairs on either side of a river or harbor to prevent deposition of sand
  20. wall built parallel to the shore
  21. wall built on the shore to prevent erosion and destruction of the shore
  22. adding sand to the beach artifically
    beach nourishment
  23. wave cute platform
    shallow area in front of the cliff where the cliff used to be
  24. sea arch
    two sea stacks attached at the top
  25. accretion
    any accumulation of sand along the shore
  26. projects into the mouth of a bay
  27. baymouth bar
    spit which completely closes off the mouth of the bay
  28. tombolo
    accretion of sand between an island and the mainland
  29. tied island
    island connected to the shore by the tombolo
  30. barrier island
    long, narrow islands parallel to the coast, protecting the mainland itself from erosion
  31. periodic changes in the elevation of water
  32. caused by moons gravitational pool
  33. spring tides
    when the moon, earth and sun are roughly aligned
  34. neap tides
    when the moon, earth and sun are at right angles
  35. tidal current
    flow of water toward or away from shore
  36. water moving towards the shore as high tide approaches
    flood tide
  37. water moving away as low tide approaches
    ebb tide
  38. tidal flat
    low lying area that is covered at high tide and exposed at low tide
  39. harnessing the tides for producing energy
    tidal power
  40. storm surge
    high winds pushing water onto the shore causing flooding
  41. seiche
    the sloshing of water back and forth in an enclosed body of water