School 2

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School 2
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  1. When working on a haircut, it is important to remember to keep your body weight:
    centered and firm
  2. The angle at which the fingers are held when cutting is the:
    cutting line
  3. in cutting the crown area is defined as the area between the apex and:
    periatal ridge
  4. The term used to describe the amount of movement in the hair strand is the:
    wave pattern
  5. Skip waves are two rows of ridge curls used to create a
    strong wave pattern
  6. A square paddle brush that has cushions of air in the head that collapse are called:
    pneumatic
  7. What type of hair should be braided slightly damp and coated with wax or pomade to make it more pliable?
    straight and resistant
  8. To avoid bulk, the amount of extension material used should be:
    less than the size of the base
  9. A board of upright nails through which extensions are blended, combed, and detangled is a(n):
    hackle
  10. what are the roller curls 3 parts
    base, stem, and curl
  11. base
    panel of hair that the roller sits on
  12. stem
    the hair between the base and the curl
  13. curl
    hair wrapped around the roller
  14. how is a c shape created
    with 1 turn around the roller
  15. how is a wave created
    with 1 and 1/2 turn around the roller
  16. how is a curl created
    2 n 1/2 turns around the roller
  17. the larger the roller the more _____________
    volume
  18. what are the 3 kinds of bases
    • on base,
    • 1/2 base
    • off base
  19. on base roller
    full volume roller sits on base
  20. 1/2 base
    medium volume and roller sits 1/2 on base
  21. off base
    little to no volume and roller doesn't sit on base at all
  22. What type of rollers are not used in a salon and why
    velcro because they don't allow for proper disinfection
  23. What are 3 other terms for back combing
    teasing, ratting, adn matting
  24. Whats another term for back brushing and what is it used for
    ruffing, creates a small cushion or meshes 2 or more curls together
  25. Hair wrapping
    used to keep curly hair smooth and straight
  26. When you wrap hair what dirction do you wrap it
    clockwise
  27. What is the process for hair wrapping
    • product
    • wrap outer perimeter
    • clip hair
    • continue wrapping
    • protect wrapped hair
    • dry hair
  28. termerature control switch
    produces a ssteady stream of air set at a certain temp
  29. concentrator
    directional feature to creat a steady stream of air
  30. diffuser
    attachement that blows softer air
  31. what do bore bristles distribute
    oil creating a shine
  32. nylon bristles
    stimulate circulation
  33. what are the 2 methods to thermal waving
    marcel waving and thermal curling
  34. what are the 4 parts of irons
    rod handle, shell handle, barrel, shell
  35. on a flat iron what is the end near the stylist called
    the inner edge
  36. how do you test the temperature on an iron
    with a piece of tissue paper or damp towel
  37. what are teh 2 types of hair pressing
    soft, medium, and hard
  38. soft hair pressing

    how much curl does it remove and how is it done?
    removes 50-60% of curl, once on each side of strand
  39. medium hair pressing

    how much curl does it remove and how is it done
    removes 60-70% of curl and same as a soft press but harder
  40. hard hair pressing

    how much curl does it remove and how
    100% of curl removed and twice on each side
  41. what is a double process with a hot iron
    pass the hot iron thru the hair and then pass the comb
  42. can you press chemically relaxed hair
    no
  43. what can the clients scalp be classified as
    • normal
    • tight
    • flexable
  44. what are the 2 types of pressing combs
    regular and electric
  45. what are pressing combs made of
    stainless steel or brass
  46. what are pressing comb handles made of
    wood
  47. what does tempering allo
    brass to hold heat evenly
  48. how do you temper a brass iron
    • heat comb until extreamly hot
    • coat in petrolium
    • let cool naturally
    • rinse to remove oil
  49. what are the 2 kinds of electric combs
    • on/off swith
    • temperature gauge
  50. before pressing what is needed
    oil or cream
  51. What is a hard press also know as
    double comb press
  52. What is the first thing you do before you press hair
    part in 4 section
  53. what is natural styling
    using no chemicals of dyes
  54. what brush removes tangels
    paddle brush
  55. how should curly hair be braided
    dry
  56. what are the 2 types of braiding styles
    visable and invisable
  57. visable braiding
    underhand
  58. invisable braiding
    inverted braid, over handed
  59. what is a rope braid
    2 strands twisted around each other
  60. how long do cornrows last without extensions
    several weeks
  61. how long do cornrows last with extensions
    2 months
  62. what are locks also known as and what are they
    dreadlocks

    natural hair that is interwinded and messhed together
  63. what the the 3 locking techniques
    • comb
    • palm roll
    • braids or extensions
  64. Amino Acids
    building blocks of protein
  65. what happens if peptide bonds are broken in hair
    hair breaks
  66. what do mettalic salts leave, where are they found
    coating and found in home haircolor
  67. how is hair elasticity classified
    normal or low
  68. how many steps is a permanate wave
    2 steps
  69. what is the most common perm rod and what do they look like
    • concave rods
    • small inside larger out
  70. what rod is equal in diameter, creating a uniform curl
    straight rods
  71. what are the 3 end paper wrap techniques
    • double flat wrap
    • single flat wrap
    • bookend wrap
  72. what si a double flat wrap
    2 end papers one on the top of strand and one on the bottom
  73. what is a single flap wrap
    one end paper on the top
  74. what is a book end wrap
    when the end paper is used like a book covering the back and front of the hair
  75. what is the first thing you do for a perm
    section hair into panels
  76. What ar epers subsection called
    base sections
  77. what are the 2 ways to wrap a perm
    • croquiqnol
    • spiral
  78. what is a croquignol wrap
    ends to scalp creating a tighter curl at the ends and a larger curl @ scalp
  79. what is a spiral perm
    produces a uniform curl
  80. once the perming solution is in the cortex what happens
    reduction starts by adding hydrogen
  81. what is the reducing agent in perms
    thio
  82. what are 8 common perms
    • alkaline waves
    • acid waves
    • true acid
    • acid balanced
    • exothermic
    • endothermic
    • ammonia free
    • thio free
    • low ph
  83. what are alkaline waves also know as
    what is their ph
    how do they process
    • cold waves
    • 9.0-9.6
    • without heat
  84. whats another name for acid waves
    high or low ph
    what does repeat exposure cause
    • glycryl monothioglycolate
    • low
    • allergies
  85. whats true acid waves ph
    heat or no heat
    • 4.5-7.0
    • heat
  86. whats a face about acid balanced waves
    what the ph
    heat or no heat
    • they are not a true acid balanced
    • 7.8-8.2
    • room temp
  87. exothermic perms
    produce heat
  88. endothermic perms
    need dryer
  89. ammonia free
    2 facts
    contain
    • little odor
    • equally as damaging
    • methanol and propanal
  90. what does thio free perms contain and what do they replace
    cystemine and mercaptamine replace ATG
  91. what do low ph wave use instead of ATG and whats another name for them
    • sulfites, sulfates, and bisulfites
    • body waves
  92. What should a proper perm break
    50% of disulfide bonds
  93. What are the 3 wraps
    • basic
    • curvature
    • bricklay
  94. Basic Wrap
    straight set wrap with horizontal base sections
  95. curvature wrap
    follow the curve of the head and uses pie shapped sections
  96. weave technique
    weaves the base sections
  97. What are the 2 types of relaxers
    thio and hydroxide
  98. Where are the thinnest and weekest strands of hair found in curly hair
    in the twists
  99. What is thio relaxers ph and what amount of ATG does it contain
    • higher than 10
    • more ATG than perms
  100. What is the active ingrediant in hydroxide relaxers
    hydroxide ions
  101. what are 4 hydroxide relaxers
    • sodium
    • potassium
    • lithium
    • guanidine
  102. what are hydroxide relaxers ph and what must they do
    • over 13
    • and must swell the hair to 2x the original diameter
  103. will a perm curl the hair with a hydroxide relaxer
    no
  104. what do you use to neutralize a hydroxide relaxer
    an acid balanced shampoo
  105. what are metal hydroxide relaxers
    ionic compounds formed by metal sodium, potassium, and lithium
  106. how many components do metal hydroxide relaxers have
    1 so there is no mixing
  107. what are sodium hydroxide relaxers commonly called
    lye relaxers
  108. guanidine hydroxide relaxers are know as
    they have _____ components
    alkaline or acid
    • no lye
    • 2, so must be mixed
    • more alkaline than hydroxide relaxers
  109. do low ph relaxers work on extremly curly hair
    no
  110. what relaxers do not require a base cream
    no base relaxers
  111. what are relaxer strengths
    mild, regular, super
  112. when do you use mild relaxers
    fine, colored, damamged hair
  113. when do you use regular relaxers
    normal with medium curl
  114. when do you use super strength relaxers
    very coarse, extreamly curly
  115. where do you apply a virgin color application
    1/4-1/2" away from the scalp, include the entire strand
  116. contributing pigemtn
    undertones
  117. level
    describes the lightness or darkeness of a color
  118. tone
    hue of color/balance of color
  119. what are the 3 color tones
    warm, cool, neutural
  120. what are the primary color
    red, yellow, blue
  121. what are the secondary colors
    • violet
    • green
    • orange
  122. what is included in permanate hair color
    • developer
    • oxidizing agent
    • alkalizing ingredient
  123. What are temporary shampoos and how long do they last
    sprays, mousses

    comes out after one shampoo
  124. how long does semi-permenate colors last
    several shampoos (4-6wks)
  125. what are demi permanate hair colors and when are they used
    • no lift deposit only hair colors
    • used after permanate colors
  126. whats permanate color
    lifts and deposits color
  127. what are analine derivitives
    dye precursors
  128. what are developers and whats the ph
    • oxidixing agents or catalysts
    • 2.5-4.5
  129. what comes first when mixing developer or color
    developer
  130. what is considered single process
    virgin, retouch
  131. what a glaze
    non ammonia color that adds shine
  132. what are the 3 forms of lightener
    oil, cream, powder
  133. which forms of lightener are considered on scalp
    oil and cream
  134. which lightener is considered off scalp
    powder
  135. how many levels of lift does oil lightener usually give
    what other hair is it used for
    • 1-2 levels
    • lightens dark facial or body hair
  136. what is cream lightener good for
    highlift
  137. activators
    powder oxidizer for off scalp lightening
  138. how many activators can you use on scalp
    how many activators can you use off scalp
    • 3
    • 4
  139. when are toners used
    on pre-lightened hair
  140. fillers
    equalize porosity
  141. what are the 2 types of fillers
    color fillers, conditioner fillers
  142. what % is heredity when it comes to skin aging
    15%
  143. what has the greatest inpact on aging
    the suns rays
  144. what % of aging is sun reponsible for
    80-85%
  145. What are the 2 suns rays
    UVA and UVB
  146. What are UVA rays
    aging
  147. what are UVB rays
    burning or tanning
  148. what vitamin does UVB rays produce
    D
  149. what outside factors can affect skin
    pollutants
  150. teleglectasis
    dialated capillaries
  151. lesions
    marks on the skin
  152. what are the 3 types of lesions
    primary, secondary, and teritary
  153. what are the 2 lesions that cosmetologists have to be concerened with
    primary and secondary
  154. what are primary lesions
    • Bulla
    • vesicle
    • macull
    • papule
    • tubercle
    • pustule
    • ulcer
    • tumor
    • wheal
  155. Whats a Bulla
    Example
    Size
    • fluid between layer
    • 2nd degree burn
    • more then 0.5cm
  156. Whats a vesicle
    example
    • fluid filled mass less than 0.5cm under skin layer
    • chicken pox
  157. whats a macule
    example
    • change in skin color less than 1cm
    • freckle
  158. whats a papule
    example
    • solid elivated lesion less than 0.5cm
    • wart
  159. whats a tubercle
    similar to a papule but extends into the dermis 0.5-2cm
  160. whats a pustule
    example
    • vesicle or bulla filled with pus usully less than 0.5cm
    • acne
  161. what is an ulcer
    a depression lesion of epidermis
  162. what is a tumor
    same as a nodule only greater than 2cm
  163. what is a wheal
    example
    • localized edema in epidermis
    • insect bite
  164. what are the 8 sebaceous gland disorders
    • comodo
    • milia
    • acne
    • seborrheic dermatitis
    • asteatosis
    • rosacea
    • steatoma
  165. comodo
    hair follicles filled with keratin and sebum
  166. milia
    benign, kerating filled cysts that are under the epidermis not visable
  167. acne
    skin disorder caused by inflammation of the sebaceous glands and bacteria
  168. propionibacterium
    bacteria filled acne
  169. whats the name for acne or common pimples
    acne vulgaris
  170. seborrheic dermatitis
    skin condition caused by inflammed sebaceous glands
  171. asteatosis
    dry scally skin caused by absence of sebaceous oil, old age, dry skin
  172. rosacea
    redness
  173. steatoma

    what is this disorder sometimes called
    sebaceous cysts or fatty tumor filled with sebum

    wen
  174. What are the 4 disorders of the sudoriferous glands
    • anhidrosis
    • bromhidrosis
    • hyperhidrosis
    • milana rubia
  175. anhidrosis
    lack of presperation
  176. bromhidrosis
    foul spelling presperation
  177. hyperhidrosis
    over prespiering
  178. milana rubia
    prickly heat
  179. what are the 4 inflammation of the skin
    • dermatitis
    • eczema
    • herpes
    • psoriasis
  180. dermatitis
    lesions in various sizes
  181. exzema
    painful itching dry and mois leasions, not contageous
  182. herpes
    fever blister of cold store contageous
  183. psoriasis
    • red patches caused by skin cels turning faster than normal
    • not contageous
  184. albanism
    congenital leukoderma, no melanin
  185. chloasm
    liver spots, caused by cummulative sun exposure
  186. lentifines
    freckles
  187. leukoderma
    light abnormal patches
  188. nevus
    birthmark
  189. stain
    abnormal brown or wine colored circular shape
  190. vitiligo
    milky white spots of the skin
  191. hypertrophies of the skin
    abnormal growth
  192. keratoma
    callus, caused by pressure
  193. corn
    inward grown callus
  194. mole
    small bwon spot
  195. skin tag
    small brown outgrowing of skin
  196. verruca
    wart
  197. what are the 3 types of skin cancer
    • basal cell
    • squamous
    • malignant
  198. basal cell carcinoma
    • most common least sever
    • light or peary nodules
  199. squamous cell
    scaley red papules of nodules
  200. malignant melanoma
    Most serious, black or dark brown patches on the skin
  201. what is the most important dermatitis in the salon
    dermatitis venenata
  202. what can over exposure to products cause
    allergic reactions
  203. what substances temporarily damage the epidermis
    irritating subastances
  204. what are the 3 permanate hair removal methods
    • electolysis
    • prhotoepilation
    • laser hair remover
  205. electrolysis
    needle shapped electrode inserted into the hair follicle to destroy growth
  206. photoepilation
    uses intense light to destroy growth and hair follicle
  207. laser hair removal
    laser is implused on the skin impairing growth
  208. shaving steps
    moist towel, apply cream, shave, lotion
  209. electronic tweezers
    transmits radio energy down the follicle which dehydrates the papillary which destroys it
  210. depilatories
    substance that uses caustic alkaline to swell the hair
  211. epilators
    wax, removes hair from follicle
  212. how much time is usually needed inbetween waxing
    4-6 weeks
  213. how long does hair need to be inorder to wax
    1/4"-1/2"
  214. Masks that are applied quickly, form a seal, and dry to a rubberized texture are:
    alginate masks
  215. The difference between closed and open comedones is the size of the:
    ostium
  216. During the skin analysis procedure, the cleanser is applied to the face using:
    upward circular movements
  217. A deep rubbing massage movement where pressure is applied while moving over an underlying structure is:
    friction movement
  218. Skin Analysis
    determins what kind of skin your client has
  219. Accutane
    oral medication that causes skin thinning
  220. How is Skin Type dertermined and where does it come from
    heredity by how oily or dry it is
  221. what is the 1st thing you look for when doing a skin analysis
    visable or absence of follicles
  222. what is another term for dry skin
    alipidic skin
  223. dry flakey skin with fine lines and wrinkles is considered
    dehydrated
  224. what are open comodones
    blackheads, combonation of sebum and dead cell build up stuck in the follicles
  225. follicle opening is called
    ostium
  226. Acne
    presents of pimples in oily areas
  227. if acne is anarobic what does that mean
    cannot survive in the presence of oxygen
  228. acne papules
    red pimples that do not have a pus head
  229. putstules
    imples with a pus head
  230. hyperpigmentation
    dark bloches of color caused by sun or hormones
  231. what are telangiectasis and couperosis also known as
    dialated caplillaries
  232. what does aging skin need
    exfoliating and hydration
  233. What are the 2 types of cleansers
    milk and foam
  234. which skin type uses cleansing milk
    sensitive skin and it's non foaming
  235. what kind of cleanser is used for oily skin
    cleansing foam
  236. toners?

    What does it do to ph
    what kind of skin is it used on
    how is it applied
    freshners/astringents

    lowers ph

    oilier

    cotton pads
  237. what do exfoliants remove
    dead skin cells
  238. what are the 2 types of exfoliants
    mechanical and chemical
  239. mechanical exfoliation
    bumps off dead cell build up
  240. what are roll off masks also called
    gommages
  241. chemical exfoliants
    loosen or dissolve dead cell build up
  242. what are the 2 types of keratolytic enzymes
    cream and powder
  243. what do moisurizers do
    help with apperance of fine lines and wrinkles
  244. whats another word for serums
    ampoules
  245. what are the 4 types of masks
    • clay
    • cream
    • gel
    • alginate
  246. clay masks are used on?
    what does it do
    • oily and combo skin
    • absorbs oil and cleanses
  247. cream masks are used on
    what effect does it have
    • dry
    • moisturizing
  248. gel masks used on
    what does it do
    • dry dehydrated skin
    • plumps
  249. what is aliginate masks made from
    what form does it come in
    what texture is it when it dries
    • seaweed
    • powder
    • rubber texture
  250. wfflaurage
    light continuous stroking movement with fingers
  251. petrissage
    kneeding pinching movement
  252. tapotement
    percussion, slapping, tapping
  253. motor point
    point where pressure on skin will cause contraction
  254. electrotherapy
    use of electrical currents to treat the skin
  255. what are the 2 types of electrical current
    galvanic, tesla
  256. microcurrent
    galvanic current thats computerized
  257. LED
    light emitting dinode
  258. Nail disorder
    condition caused by injury or disease
  259. bruised nails
    blood clot forms under nail plate
  260. ridges
    vertical caused by uneven growth or age
  261. egg shell
    noticably think white nail plates caused by improper diet or hereditary
  262. when filing eggshell nails what grit do you use 240 or higher
  263. beau's lines
    visable depressions running across the width of nail
  264. Hangnail also called
    define
    • agnail
    • living skin splits around the nail
  265. leukonychia
    caused by
    white spots, caused by injury
  266. melanonychia
    darkening of finger nails or toes
  267. onychophagy
    bitten nails
  268. onychorrhexis
    split of brittle nails with ridges
  269. plictured
    folded nail
  270. nail pterygium
    • skin stretched by nail plate
    • caused by burns
  271. pseudomonas aeruginosa
    discolorations of the nail plate
  272. The facial type that is wide at temples, narrow at the middle third of the face, and squared off at the jaw is the:
    square
  273. In ancient Rome, middle-class women colored their hair:
    blond
  274. To avoid damage to chemically treated hair, improve manageability, and make the hair smooth and shiny, use a(n
    conditioning or moisturizing shampoo
  275. The melanin granules found in fine hair texture are grouped:
    tightly
  276. A color that deepens and darkens skin tones to minimize a specific area is a:
    contour color
  277. Machine-made wigs are referred to as:
    capless wigs
  278. Depending upon the use of the UV light bulb, the typical UV bulb should be changed:
    2-3 times a year
  279. The shape of the cells in the medulla layer of the hair is:
    round
  280. When placing multi-use nail forms over the free edge, take the precautions not to cut into the:
    hyponichium

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