The flashcards below were created by user
on FreezingBlue Flashcards.
the entire active area of the coast that experiences changes due to breaking waves
Where does wave energy converge?
where does wave energy diverge?
away from adjoining bays
- as waves approach shore, they bend so crests are nearly parallel to shore
- different segments of wave crests move at different speeds
Zig zag motion
long shore current
long shore current
zig zag motion
How much can the long shore current speed up to?
What does the long shore current speed up with?
- beach slope
- wave height
- wave frequency
How fast are rip currents
How big are rip currents
15-150 ft wide
What are some features of a depositional coast?
Delta, Spit, Tombolo, Barrier island
What are the features of a barrier island?
- barrier flat
- salt marsh
formed from sand driven through openings during storm
extends from ~mean sea level to the high neap-tide line
extends to highest spring-tide line
what si the most biologically productivd
- low marsh
- land building vegitation
What 3 external forcing functions shape a delta
- river influence
- wave influence
- tide influence
Which one of the 3 external forcing functions shaping a delta forms the most structured delta?
Which 1 of the 3 external forcing functions shaping a delta forms the least structured delta?
What determines the final shape of the delta?
the balance of all three factors
What is the dominating external forcing function of the Mississippi river Delta and how has the delta built the coast line?
- River dominated
- switching delta lobes build coastline
body of water surrounded partially by land where fresh and ocean water mix
What are the geologic classifications of estuaries?
- Drowned River Mouth
Drowned river mouth estuary
- river under rising sea level
- ex: Chesapeake Bay
Fjord Geological Estuary
glacially eroded, deep with sill at mouth
- former low stand of sea level
- low angle coastlines
- EX: NC, Florida, Gulf Coast
- active plate margins
- ex: San Francisco Bay
Chemical Characteristics of estuaries
amount of mixing between freshwater and salt water
The chemical characteristics of estuaries are determined by:
- shape of estuary
- volume of river flow at head
- tidal range at the mouth
What are chemical categories of estuaries categorized by?
What are the chemical categories of estuaries?
- salt wedge
Which chemical category of estuaries is becoming more common?