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Six reasons to prune trees
- Remove dead branches
- Remove crossing branches
- Remove lower limbs that interfere with traffic
- To slow growth
- To reduce wind throw
- To increase light penetration
The separation of xylem circumferentially along annual rings caused by flush cuts
Natural Target Pruning
Removal of a branch at a line intersecting the branch bark ridge and branch collar
Branch bark ridge
A raised line of bark that forms on the upper side of where the branch joins the trunk.
A distinctive bulge at the base of the branch, where it connects to the trunk.
A dominant leader is cut back to a lateral branch
Removal of dead, weak and dying branches
Removal of dead, diseased, crowded, weakly attached, low-vigor branches and water sprouts from a tree crown
Includes crown cleaning as well as the selective removal of branches to increase light penetration and air movement, reducing weight.
Drop crotch pruning. Reduction of limbs to branches capable of assuming the terminal role (must be at least 1/3 size)
Take a few of the best sprouts resulting from topping and train them over years to become branches
Removing lower branches to provide clearance for vehicles and pedestrians
Rule of thirds
When removing a branch, cut it back to a branch at least 1/3 the diameter
Do not remove more than 1/3 the total leaf surface in any one pruning
Timing to cable/brace
- Do not cable/brace during spring growth or leaf fall
- Prune prior to cable/brace
Four Patterns of Cabling
- Hub and Spoke
Types of Cable Hardware
- Threaded Rod- when decay is likely
- Eye bolts- use in decayed tree
- Amon eye nuts
- Lag hooks- no decay
Rules of Cabling
- Cables installed directly across the crotch, 2/3 from crotch to end of limb.
- When more than one cable is installed on same branch, space 12 in apart and never directly above/below