Card Set Information
A wave is a ( ) and ( ) of sea level in a period of several ( ).
Rise, fall, seconds
Most ocean waves are generated by ( ), but some are generated by ( ) and ( ).
wind, earthquakes, volcanism
The size of ocean waves depends on the wind ( ), ( ), and ( ).
Speed, duration, fetch
The wavelength of a wave is defined as the ( ) distance between any two ( ) points on a wave.
The height of a wave is the ( ) distance between a ( ), and the ( ).
veritcal, crest, trough
Time taken by a wave to travel a wavelength is called ( )
The zero-amplitude location ona wave is known as the ( ).
Only the ( ) wavelength waves survive the travel across an ocean.
Waves break in the ( ) water, due to the condition: H> ( )
A breaker with an enclosing pocket (tube) of air is called ( ).
As waves approach the coast their wavelength ( ).
The definition of ashallow water wave is d<( ), and for a deep-water wave it is d>( ).
Water particales in a deep-water wave move in a ( ) orbit, and in shall water wave, in an ( ).
The speed of shallow waterwaves deponds on on the water ( )
Refraction is when waves ( ) towards an obstacle.
Due to refraction, waves ( ) around islands.
Bouncing of waves due to steep slopes at a coast is called ( ).
( ) of waves when they pass an opening is called Diffraction.
If waves don't come at an ( ), or if they don't ( ), or there is no ( ) motion, then there won't be any Longshore current.
angle, break, zig-zag
( ) currents are caused by returning water of a longshore current.
( ) are large waves caused by Earthquakes, ( ), or ( ).
Tsunamis, volcanism, mass movements
The speed of these large shallow water waves depends primarily on the water ( ).
( ) is caused by high speed wainds that blow over coasts.
The area where waves break near a shor is called ( ).
Due to refraction, waves ( ) inside a bay and converge on ( ).
Due to intense wave action, headlands are always ( ).
Waves of similar wavelength break at the same ( ).
The depth to the ( ) is half the wavelength.
Below the ( ) thre is no motion due to waves.
To make a ship move less due to waves,m the ships hull must reach below the ( )
Wave ( ) causes all waves that enter a bay to take the shape of the bay just beofre they break.
Wave parameters like height, length, and period can be measured using ( ).
Due to higher wind speeds, winter waves are ( ) than summer waves.
Extremely large waves that form due to ( ) of different wave sets are called rogue waves.
As a wave passes by any point what happens to the sea level at that point?
Rises and Falls
Diffraction is a combination of ( ).
If the left side of a wave enters shallow water first, then that wave will bend towards the ( ).