Waves

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Author:
Jenbunni
ID:
84623
Filename:
Waves
Updated:
2011-05-08 20:37:09
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Waves Munasinghe
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Description:
Waves, Munasinghe
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  1. A wave is a ( ) and ( ) of sea level in a period of several ( ).
    Rise, fall, seconds
  2. Most ocean waves are generated by ( ), but some are generated by ( ) and ( ).
    wind, earthquakes, volcanism
  3. The size of ocean waves depends on the wind ( ), ( ), and ( ).
    Speed, duration, fetch
  4. The wavelength of a wave is defined as the ( ) distance between any two ( ) points on a wave.
    Horizontal, similar
  5. The height of a wave is the ( ) distance between a ( ), and the ( ).
    veritcal, crest, trough
  6. Time taken by a wave to travel a wavelength is called ( )
    wave period
  7. The zero-amplitude location ona wave is known as the ( ).
    node
  8. Only the ( ) wavelength waves survive the travel across an ocean.
    long
  9. Waves break in the ( ) water, due to the condition: H> ( )
    shallow, L/7
  10. A breaker with an enclosing pocket (tube) of air is called ( ).
    plunger
  11. As waves approach the coast their wavelength ( ).
    decreases
  12. The definition of ashallow water wave is d<( ), and for a deep-water wave it is d>( ).
    L/20, L/2
  13. Water particales in a deep-water wave move in a ( ) orbit, and in shall water wave, in an ( ).
    Circular, Ellipse
  14. The speed of shallow waterwaves deponds on on the water ( )
    LT Depth
  15. Refraction is when waves ( ) towards an obstacle.
    bend
  16. Due to refraction, waves ( ) around islands.
    wrap
  17. Bouncing of waves due to steep slopes at a coast is called ( ).
    reflection
  18. ( ) of waves when they pass an opening is called Diffraction.
    spreading
  19. If waves don't come at an ( ), or if they don't ( ), or there is no ( ) motion, then there won't be any Longshore current.
    angle, break, zig-zag
  20. ( ) currents are caused by returning water of a longshore current.
    rip
  21. ( ) are large waves caused by Earthquakes, ( ), or ( ).
    Tsunamis, volcanism, mass movements
  22. The speed of these large shallow water waves depends primarily on the water ( ).
    depth
  23. ( ) is caused by high speed wainds that blow over coasts.
    storm surge
  24. The area where waves break near a shor is called ( ).
    Surf Zone
  25. Due to refraction, waves ( ) inside a bay and converge on ( ).
    diverge, headlands
  26. Due to intense wave action, headlands are always ( ).
    Rocky
  27. Waves of similar wavelength break at the same ( ).
    depth
  28. The depth to the ( ) is half the wavelength.
    wave base
  29. Below the ( ) thre is no motion due to waves.
    Wave Base
  30. To make a ship move less due to waves,m the ships hull must reach below the ( )
    Wave Base
  31. Wave ( ) causes all waves that enter a bay to take the shape of the bay just beofre they break.
    refraction
  32. Wave parameters like height, length, and period can be measured using ( ).
    tide gauges
  33. Due to higher wind speeds, winter waves are ( ) than summer waves.
    bigger
  34. Extremely large waves that form due to ( ) of different wave sets are called rogue waves.
    Interference
  35. As a wave passes by any point what happens to the sea level at that point?
    Rises and Falls
  36. Diffraction is a combination of ( ).
    Refractions
  37. If the left side of a wave enters shallow water first, then that wave will bend towards the ( ).
    Left

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