# Waves

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1. A wave is a ( ) and ( ) of sea level in a period of several ( ).
Rise, fall, seconds
2. Most ocean waves are generated by ( ), but some are generated by ( ) and ( ).
wind, earthquakes, volcanism
3. The size of ocean waves depends on the wind ( ), ( ), and ( ).
Speed, duration, fetch
4. The wavelength of a wave is defined as the ( ) distance between any two ( ) points on a wave.
Horizontal, similar
5. The height of a wave is the ( ) distance between a ( ), and the ( ).
veritcal, crest, trough
6. Time taken by a wave to travel a wavelength is called ( )
wave period
7. The zero-amplitude location ona wave is known as the ( ).
node
8. Only the ( ) wavelength waves survive the travel across an ocean.
long
9. Waves break in the ( ) water, due to the condition: H> ( )
shallow, L/7
10. A breaker with an enclosing pocket (tube) of air is called ( ).
plunger
11. As waves approach the coast their wavelength ( ).
decreases
12. The definition of ashallow water wave is d<( ), and for a deep-water wave it is d>( ).
L/20, L/2
13. Water particales in a deep-water wave move in a ( ) orbit, and in shall water wave, in an ( ).
Circular, Ellipse
14. The speed of shallow waterwaves deponds on on the water ( )
LT Depth
15. Refraction is when waves ( ) towards an obstacle.
bend
16. Due to refraction, waves ( ) around islands.
wrap
17. Bouncing of waves due to steep slopes at a coast is called ( ).
reflection
18. ( ) of waves when they pass an opening is called Diffraction.
19. If waves don't come at an ( ), or if they don't ( ), or there is no ( ) motion, then there won't be any Longshore current.
angle, break, zig-zag
20. ( ) currents are caused by returning water of a longshore current.
rip
21. ( ) are large waves caused by Earthquakes, ( ), or ( ).
Tsunamis, volcanism, mass movements
22. The speed of these large shallow water waves depends primarily on the water ( ).
depth
23. ( ) is caused by high speed wainds that blow over coasts.
storm surge
24. The area where waves break near a shor is called ( ).
Surf Zone
25. Due to refraction, waves ( ) inside a bay and converge on ( ).
26. Due to intense wave action, headlands are always ( ).
Rocky
27. Waves of similar wavelength break at the same ( ).
depth
28. The depth to the ( ) is half the wavelength.
wave base
29. Below the ( ) thre is no motion due to waves.
Wave Base
30. To make a ship move less due to waves,m the ships hull must reach below the ( )
Wave Base
31. Wave ( ) causes all waves that enter a bay to take the shape of the bay just beofre they break.
refraction
32. Wave parameters like height, length, and period can be measured using ( ).
tide gauges
33. Due to higher wind speeds, winter waves are ( ) than summer waves.
bigger
34. Extremely large waves that form due to ( ) of different wave sets are called rogue waves.
Interference
35. As a wave passes by any point what happens to the sea level at that point?
Rises and Falls
36. Diffraction is a combination of ( ).
Refractions
37. If the left side of a wave enters shallow water first, then that wave will bend towards the ( ).
Left

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 Author: Jenbunni ID: 84623 Filename: Waves Updated: 2011-05-09 00:37:09 Tags: Waves Munasinghe Folders: Description: Waves, Munasinghe Show Answers:

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