# Waves

 The flashcards below were created by user Jenbunni on FreezingBlue Flashcards. A wave is a ( ) and ( ) of sea level in a period of several ( ). Rise, fall, seconds Most ocean waves are generated by ( ), but some are generated by ( ) and ( ). wind, earthquakes, volcanism The size of ocean waves depends on the wind ( ), ( ), and ( ). Speed, duration, fetch The wavelength of a wave is defined as the ( ) distance between any two ( ) points on a wave. Horizontal, similar The height of a wave is the ( ) distance between a ( ), and the ( ). veritcal, crest, trough Time taken by a wave to travel a wavelength is called ( ) wave period The zero-amplitude location ona wave is known as the ( ). node Only the ( ) wavelength waves survive the travel across an ocean. long Waves break in the ( ) water, due to the condition: H> ( ) shallow, L/7 A breaker with an enclosing pocket (tube) of air is called ( ). plunger As waves approach the coast their wavelength ( ). decreases The definition of ashallow water wave is d<( ), and for a deep-water wave it is d>( ). L/20, L/2 Water particales in a deep-water wave move in a ( ) orbit, and in shall water wave, in an ( ). Circular, Ellipse The speed of shallow waterwaves deponds on on the water ( ) LT Depth Refraction is when waves ( ) towards an obstacle. bend Due to refraction, waves ( ) around islands. wrap Bouncing of waves due to steep slopes at a coast is called ( ). reflection ( ) of waves when they pass an opening is called Diffraction. spreading If waves don't come at an ( ), or if they don't ( ), or there is no ( ) motion, then there won't be any Longshore current. angle, break, zig-zag ( ) currents are caused by returning water of a longshore current. rip ( ) are large waves caused by Earthquakes, ( ), or ( ). Tsunamis, volcanism, mass movements The speed of these large shallow water waves depends primarily on the water ( ). depth ( ) is caused by high speed wainds that blow over coasts. storm surge The area where waves break near a shor is called ( ). Surf Zone Due to refraction, waves ( ) inside a bay and converge on ( ). diverge, headlands Due to intense wave action, headlands are always ( ). Rocky Waves of similar wavelength break at the same ( ). depth The depth to the ( ) is half the wavelength. wave base Below the ( ) thre is no motion due to waves. Wave Base To make a ship move less due to waves,m the ships hull must reach below the ( ) Wave Base Wave ( ) causes all waves that enter a bay to take the shape of the bay just beofre they break. refraction Wave parameters like height, length, and period can be measured using ( ). tide gauges Due to higher wind speeds, winter waves are ( ) than summer waves. bigger Extremely large waves that form due to ( ) of different wave sets are called rogue waves. Interference As a wave passes by any point what happens to the sea level at that point? Rises and Falls Diffraction is a combination of ( ). Refractions If the left side of a wave enters shallow water first, then that wave will bend towards the ( ). Left AuthorJenbunni ID84623 Card SetWaves DescriptionWaves, Munasinghe Updated2011-05-09T00:37:09Z Show Answers